This Sunday started with an 8:00 AM alarm. All of the
students were told to meet at the farmacia
(pharmacy) inside the Santa Maria Novella train station by 9:45 sharp. To our
surprise, it was located directly in front of a McDonalds! Although the pizza,
pasta, meat and cheese trays have been treating us well, we succumbed to the homey
smells of bacon, egg, and cheese sandwiches and hash browns.
Our first destination was the city of Prato, known for its
textiles and wool production dating back to the 12th century. When
we got off the train we proceeded to the textile museum, located inside a real
textile factory with the machinery that was used in the Middle Ages (pictured left). The
factory was one of the tallest smokestacks in Prato, causing it to be a target
that was bombed during World War II.
After passing the large machine, we entered into a room with
glass cases containing outfits in chronological order from the 1700’s to the
1800’s. At the beginning of the century women would wear extravagant dresses
with cages underneath (pictured to the left). Towards the second half of the 18th
century the clothes began transitioning to something simpler. Aristocracy
started to travel, leading to a neoclassical style where women wore dresses
that were more comfortable (no cages), had less decorations, and were more
practical (pictured to the right).
In the past, the factory workers had to use what they could
find in nature (e.g., plants, herbs) to add color to the textiles, and some
colors were worth more than others. Wearing red clothing indicated someone who had
excess money to spend on clothes. If a deep red velvet fabric was spotted, that
meant they were very wealthy. In order to create the red color, a parasite
(cochineal) found on cacti was collected, dried, and turned into a powder.
Aside from red, any deep color was also expensive (e.g., deep blue, deep yellow).
A deep yellow dye was made from turmeric. Poor people or monks would wear
beige, dirty off-white, or grey clothes because they could not afford added
dyes. The color of clothing was used as a way to identify people and their
status in society.
This post was written by Audrey Rehberg, a first-year doctoral student in Consumer Science from Westfield, IN. Her research interests include male and female sexual health issues and the correlates of sexual pleasure.
Thank you Audrey for letting us stroll along with you on Sunday. The food looks/sounds scrumptious. I always enjoy hearing about textiles of all kinds and how they were used in historical clothing. With all their underwear/under clothes contraptions they probably needed lots of fabric to cover and hide everything. Today we have all the comfort of stretch fabrics and minimal underpinnings. It is so interesting about how color was used. Even today, as weird as it may sound, that red beetle (cochineal)is STILL used in red makeup etc. especially lipstick.
ReplyDeleteI am reading this on Friday, so am thinking your time there is almost 1/2 over. Unbelievable.